Dropping a tree in the right spot isn’t as simple as making a cut and stepping back. There’s planning involved, technique to learn, and a lot of ways things can go wrong if you’re not prepared. Whether you’re clearing land, cutting firewood, or just removing a tree that’s become a problem, felling takes attention to detail and respect for what you’re dealing with.
At Rock Creek Tree, Turf & Landscape in Montgomery County, we’ve been felling trees for nearly two decades. We’ve seen what happens when people skip steps or underestimate the job. This guide walks through the basics of how to fell a tree safely, but if you’re dealing with anything complicated, rotted, leaning, or near power lines, call a professional. Some trees are just too risky to handle on your own.
Before You Even Touch the Saw
Felling a tree starts long before you fire up the chainsaw. You need to look at the tree itself and everything around it. Miss something in this step, and you could end up with a tree in your truck bed or worse.
Check the tree’s condition. Look at the crown. Are the branches heavier on one side? Is the trunk leaning? Are there visible cracks, holes, or soft spots that might mean rot inside? If the tree is decayed, leaning hard, or under tension from being hung up on something, don’t touch it. Those trees are unpredictable and can snap, split, or kick back when you cut into them.
Look up. Dead branches hanging in the canopy are called widow-makers for a reason. They can shake loose and come down on you while you’re working. If you can’t remove them safely before you start, you need to rethink your approach or call someone else.
Check for power lines. If there’s any chance the tree could hit a line when it falls, stop. Don’t guess. Don’t think you can work around it. Call the power company. They’ll either move the line or remove the tree themselves. It’s not worth the risk.
Look at nearby trees. Make sure the tree you’re cutting has a clear path all the way to the ground. A tree that gets hung up in another tree is dangerous as hell. Even experienced loggers get hurt or killed dealing with lodged trees. If there’s a chance your tree will hang up, you need a different plan.
Plan Your Escape Routes
Once you’ve decided the tree is safe to cut, figure out where you’re going to go when it starts coming down. Plan two escape paths at roughly 45-degree angles from each other, both going away from the direction the tree will fall. Walk those paths and clear them of anything you could trip over: branches, tools, uneven ground, whatever. You don’t want to be stumbling when a tree is falling behind you.
Set your chainsaw down somewhere safe but not on your escape routes. If things go sideways, you need to be able to drop the saw and move. Never run with a chainsaw in your hands.
Clear the Work Area
Before you make your first cut, clear around the base of the tree. Get rid of brush, limbs, anything that’ll get in your way or throw off your footing. Make sure everyone else is at least one and a half times the tree’s height away from the base. That’s the minimum safe distance. If the tree is 50 feet tall, people need to be 75 feet back.
Making the Cuts
For small trees (6 inches in diameter or less) you can usually make one straight cut through the trunk. For anything bigger, you need two cuts: the undercut and the back cut. There are fancier techniques out there, but those are for professionals. Stick with the basics.
The Undercut
The undercut is a notch you cut into the side of the tree in the direction you want it to fall. It acts like an aiming guide. There are a few ways to make an undercut, but the most common is a V-shaped notch made with two cuts.
Start with a horizontal cut about a quarter of the way through the tree’s diameter. Then make an angled cut from above that meets the first cut, removing a wedge of wood. The notch should open toward the direction you want the tree to fall.
Some people use what’s called an open-faced undercut, which gives you a wider opening (closer to 90 degrees instead of 45). It’s easier to make and gives the tree more room to fall before the notch closes up. Either way works, but the open-faced version has some safety advantages.
The Back Cut
The back cut is made on the opposite side of the tree from the undercut, slightly higher than the bottom of the notch (about 1 to 2 inches above it). This cut releases the tension holding the tree upright and lets it start to fall.
Here’s the critical part: don’t cut all the way through. Leave a strip of wood between the undercut and the back cut. This strip is called the hinge, and it’s what controls the direction of the fall. The tree pivots on the hinge as it goes down. If you cut through it, you lose all control.
As soon as the tree starts to move, shut off the saw and get out of there. Move down one of your escape paths and don’t stop until you’re well clear. Don’t stand there watching it fall. Trees can bounce backward off the stump, and you don’t want to be anywhere near the base when that happens.
Leaning Trees Are a Different Game
If a tree is already leaning, it changes everything. The lean puts tension on the wood, and a standard back cut can cause the tree to split or fall before you’re ready. Leaning trees, trees under tension, and anything that looks unstable should be left to professionals. The risk isn’t worth it.
After the Tree Is Down
Once the tree is on the ground, give it a minute before you start limbing or bucking. Sometimes branches or debris that got shaken loose will take a few seconds to fall. Use the time to catch your breath.
When you’re ready to start cutting, evaluate the situation. Is the tree hung up on anything? Are there branches holding it off the ground? Is it on level ground or a slope? All of these things affect how you approach the next steps.
Stand on the uphill side if the tree is on a slope. Never stand on the downhill side. If the log rolls, it’s going to roll toward you. Work from the base of the tree toward the top, cutting branches on the opposite side of the trunk from where you’re standing. This keeps the log between you and the saw.
Watch out for springpoles: smaller trees or branches that got bent over and trapped under the weight of the fallen tree. They’re loaded with tension, and when you cut them, they can whip back fast. Cut springpoles at the apex of the bend to release the tension safely.
Bucking the Tree into Usable Lengths
Bucking is just cutting the tree into whatever lengths you need (firewood, logs, whatever). The main thing to watch for is the log shifting or pinching the saw as you cut. If the log is suspended at one end or resting on uneven ground, it’s going to settle or roll when you remove wood. Cut from the top or bottom depending on where the pressure is to avoid getting your saw stuck.
If you’re cutting on flat ground, the biggest issue is keeping your chain out of the dirt. Hitting dirt will dull your chain instantly. A sawbuck (a simple stand that holds the log off the ground) makes bucking a lot easier and safer.
When to Call a Professional
Felling a tree isn’t something to take lightly. If the tree is rotted, leaning, near power lines, or in a tight spot where a bad fall could cause serious damage, call someone who does this for a living. At Rock Creek Tree, we handle complicated removals every week. We’ve got the equipment, the training, and the insurance to do it safely.
Final Thoughts
Felling a tree takes planning, the right cuts, and constant attention to what’s happening around you. It’s not a job to rush through or take shortcuts on. If you’re confident in your skills and the tree is straightforward, go ahead. But if you have any doubt, don’t gamble. The cost of getting it wrong is way higher than the cost of hiring someone who knows what they’re doing.
Need help with tree removal? Call Rock Creek Tree, Turf & Landscape at 301-945-7677 or contact us to schedule an assessment!
